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Program

Please note that this is a preliminary program and session details are subject to change.
All times are in Eastern Daylight Time.
* An asterisk indicates that the paper is a Founding Presidents Award nominee

Thursday, October 15, 2020

9:45-10:00 am Welcome
10:00-12:00 am Concurrent Session 1

Session 1A
Individual Papers: Mexico

  1. Adriana Sanroman, From Birth to Death: The Silk Flower Industry in Mexico
  2. Suzanne MacAulay, A Tale of Two Sisters: Invisibility, Marginalization, and Renown in a Twentieth-Century Textile Arts Revitalization Movement in New Mexico
  3. Brenda Mondragon Toledo, Indigenous Textile Circulation in the Fashion Industry: A Case of Mexican Tenango Embroidery
  4. Eleanor Laughlin, The Maker’s Mark?: An Examination of an Embroidered Rebozo and Its Potential Signature

Session 1B
Roundtable Discussion: Cultural Sustainability and the Craft Economy
Moderator: Lesli Robertson
Discussants: Halle Butvin, Diana N’Diaye, Ashkhen Khudaverdyan

Session 1C
Roundtable Discussion: Handmade in India: Trade, Ethics, and the Craft Economy
Moderator: Ritu Sethi
Discussants: Abduljabbar Mohammad Khatri, Ritu Sethi, Shilpa Sharma, Charllotte Kwon

Session 1D
Individual Papers: Textile Design

  1. Stephanie Zollinger, Behind the Curtain: Jack Lenor Larsen and His Textile Collaboration with Swaziland
  2. Helena Britt, Beneath The Cloth: Discovering Collaborative Methods of Textile Designing and Making

12:15-1:15 pm Keynote Address: Sanford Biggers

1:30-3:30 pm Concurrent Session 2

Session 2A
Organized Session: Connective Tissues: Examining Inscribed Textiles from Egyptian Burial Grounds
Organizers: Mary McWilliams and Julie H. Wertz; Discussant: Jochen Sokoly

  1. Katie Taronas, Inscriptions, Iconography, and Individuals in Early Byzantine Egyptian Textiles
  2. Meredyth Lynn Winter, Ṭirāz: A Merger between Embroidery and Tapestry
  3. Robin Hanson and Julie H. Wertz, Materials and Making of Tirāz Textiles
  4. Mary McWilliams, Assigning Value and Constructing Collections: The Accumulation of Tirāz Textiles in American Museums, 1900-1950

Session 2B
Individual Papers: Reclaiming Traditions

  1. Juhi Pandey and Raji Ben Vankar, THEN and NOW: Economic Empowerment One Weave at a Time
  2. Magali Berthon, Reclaiming Silk Knowledge with Cambodian Weavers: An Action Research Experiment
  3. Xia Gao, A Lens through Dao Lian Tu: Designing, Making, and Consuming XiaBu
  4. Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada, Transformative Power of Stitchery: Sashiko from Cold Regions of Japan and Embroidery Work of the Nui Project

Session 2C
Organized Session: Coded Communications: Digital Weaving as Artistic Technology
Organizers: Gabe Duggan and Janie Woodbridge

  1. Gabe Duggan, Glitched Metaphors: Dysfunction in Hand-Woven Digital Jacquard
  2. Janie Woodbridge, Giving a Shape to the Invisible
  3. Robin Haller, Translations of Human Experience
  4. Kate Nartker, Textiles: The Original Cinematic Medium

3:45-5:45 pm Concurrent Session 3

Session 3A
Organized Session: Dialogues between Archaeological, Historical, and Contemporary Textiles in the Andes
Organizer: Ann Peters

  1. Maria Elena del Solar, The White Haku: The Plain-Woven Mantle, a Long Tradition in North Central Peru
  2. Veronica Cereceda, Three Different identities, but Garments and Designs Woven in an Inter-Ethnic dialogue
  3. Soledad Hoces de la Guardia, Textile Memory in Colchane: Weavers Revitalizing the Aymara Tradition
  4. Bárbara Cáses, Ethnoarchaeology of the Textile Chaîne Operatoire. Seeking evidence of pre-hispanic textile production in domestic sites
  5. Yuki Seo, The Practice of Replication: A Dialogue between Producers in Peru and Japan
  6. Rommel Angeles, Interlacing past and present through textiles: experiences in the communities, a vision from Peru

Session 3B
Individual Papers: Journeys

  1. Deborah Valoma, We Are Still Here: The Armenian Postmemory Project
  2. Polly Barton, Four Artists: Angels and Mentors
  3. John Paul Morabito, Magnificat: Weaving the Queer Face of the Madonna
  4. Sania Samad, Unraveling Stories through Stitches

Session 3C
Organized Session: Imported Skills: Immigrant Labor in Asiatic Silk Production from the Early Modern to Postmodern Periods
Organizers: Nazanin Hedayat Munroe and Eva Labson

  1. Sylvia Houghteling, Histories of Silken Skills: Immigrant Sericulturalists in Early Modern South Asia
  2. Nazanin Hedayat Munroe, Shared Provenance: Investigating Safavid-Mughal Cultural Exchange through Luxury Silk Production during the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries
  3. Nader Sayadi, Of Prophets, Caterpillars, and Silver: Job and the Origin-Story of Sericulture in the Early Modern Islamic World
  4. Magali An Berthon, Embodied Practice and Shifting Identities: Silk Weaving as a Cambodian Refugee during and after the Khmer Rouge Regime

6:00-8:00 pm Concurrent Session 4

Session 4A
Organized Session: Extraordinary Fibers, Extraordinary Stories from the Andes and Beyond
Organizer: Elena Phipps

  1. Penelope Dransart, Camelid Fleece and How other Animals Made People Human in the Andes
  2. Ann Peters and Adriana Soldi, Plants in the Tapestry, Literally
  3. Elena Phipps and Caroline Solazzo, Viscacha: Luxury, Fate, and Identification in Pre-Columbian Textiles
  4. Andrew James Hamilton, The Birds that Bite People: Bat Fur Weaving in the Inca Empire

Session 4B
Organized Session: Stories Stitched in Silk: Uncovering Women’s Lives through Needlework
Organizer: Lynne Anderson

  1. Lynne Anderson, By Land and by Sea: Displaced Samplers Reveal Women on the Move
  2. Janet Hasson, It’s in the Genes: Tennessee Samplers Uncover a Family of Teachers
  3. Viven Caughley, The Cook Map Samplers: Revealing New Worlds through Needlework
  4. Patricia Wilson Nguyen, Scandal and Imprisonment: Gold Spinners of Seventeenth-Century England

Session 4C
Individual Papers: Chinese Textiles and Dress

  1. Chie Miyawaki, A New Style of Ethnic Clothing: Tradition and Fashion for Hmong Dress in China
  2. Sharon Tsang-de Lyster, Life of a Sampler: The Significance of the Untold and “Mundane” in Miao cultural transmission
  3. Tomoko Torimaru, A Compared Study of Miao Embroidery and Ancient Chinese Embroidery: The Cultural and Historical Significances
  4. Jorie Johnson, Huazhan: Paste Resist Felts of the Bai Minority, Yunnan, China

8:30-9:30 pm

Film: Olimpia Newman & Julia Gomez, Colcha Circle: A Stitch in Northern New Mexico Culture (37 min.), followed by Q&A

Friday, October 16, 2020

10:00 am -12:00 pm Concurrent Session 5

Session 5A
Organized Session: Unfolding Hidden Stories of the Informal Workforce, India
Organizer: Anu H. Gupta

  1. Shalina Mehta, Struggles of Silent Crusaders of Ethnic Craft—Hidden Stories of Rural Women Artisans in an Unorganized Sector of Domestic Craft in India
  2. Monica Munjial Singh, Gujjar Women’s Empowerment in the Informal Sector – A Case Study
  3. Simrita Singh and Anu H. Gupta, Unseen, unheard, unnamed: The matchless and unsung heroes of textile art and craft of Rajasthan
  4. Anu H. Gupta, Behind the Scenes: Hidden Stories of Craftswomen of Punjab, India

Session 5B
Individual Papers: Women, Textiles, and Politics

  1. Christalena Hughmanick, Freedom Quilt: Collective Patchwork in Post-Communist Hungary
  2. Chris Rudisill, Queering the Bias: LGBTQ Quiltmaking in the American South

Session 5C
Individual Papers: Textiles and Education

  1. Kelli Coles, Schoolgirl Embroideries and Black Girlhood in Antebellum Philadelphia
  2. Kate Sekules, Evil in the Wardrobe: Stocking Darns and the Gilded Age Woman in New York, 1870-1900
  3. I-Fen Huang, One Man’s Search for Modernity: The Untold Story of Wu Meiling and Embroidery Education in Early Twentieth-Century Taiwan
  4. Darden Bradshaw, Culturally Responsive Art Education for Girls: Moving the Margins in Malawi
  5. Amanda Thompson, Altering Clothing: Appropriation, Assimilation, and Native Resilience in Florida Seminole and White Settler Relations, 1940s-1950s

12:15-1:15 pm

Plenary Address: Julia Bryan-Wilson

1:30-3:30 Concurrent Session 6

Session 6A
Individual Papers: Early Textiles

  1. Amanda Phillips, Technology, Aesthetics, and Ambition at Play: The Silk of Sultan Bayezid
  2. Tayana Fincher, Coming Together Again: A Case Study of Persian Silk Woven Textiles
  3. Sumiyo Okumura, Hidden Story of the “Mamluk” Quilt Cover in the collection of the Benaki Museum
  4. Linda R. Baumgarten and Kathryn Berenson, Enigmatic Mediterranean Silk Quilts

Session 6B
Individual Papers: Weavers

  1. Sarah Stanley, Superabundance: The Legacy of Laura Lu Copenhaver
  2. Ruth Scheuing, Honey Hooser, A Pioneer Weaver with a Card-operated Jacquard Loom 
  3. Sarah Broomfield, Modernist Influences in Churchill Weavers Textiles: 1922-1949
  4. Jennifer Nieling, The Nantucket Looms: Historicism and Modernism in an Island Cottage Industry

Session 6C
Individual Papers: Craftivism

  1. Zenovia Toloudi, On Object-Made Quilts and Migrants’ Structural Textiles
  2. Hinda Mandell, Rochester Ladies Anti-Slavery (Sewing) Society: Race and Gender in Mid-Nineteenth-Century Handicraft as a Tool for the Abolitionist Cause
  3. Julie Hollenbach, Whose Personal is Political?: Troubling Privileged Affect in White Feminist Craftivism
  4. Catherine Dormor, The Arts of Urgency: Textile Practices and Truth-Telling
  5. Alesia Maltz, The Stories of Welcome Blanket Makers

3:45-5:45 pm Concurrent Session 7

Session 7A
Individual Papers: Africa

  1. Mercy Wanduara, Kenyan Basketry (Ciondo) by Women from Central and Eastern Kenya
  2. Idowu Diyaolu, Local Weaving Techniques in Iseyin and Consumers’ Perception
  3. Kylin Flothe, The Southern Ndebele: Aprons, Homes, and Peaceful Protest
  4. Nzuji De Magalhaes, The Patterns Disguise the Rapping of My Soul

Session 7B
Individual Papers: 18th Century

  1. Heidi Strobel, Embroidery, Gender, and Self-Portraiture in the Late Eighteenth Century
  2. Genevieve Cortinovis and Miriam Murphy, Signed in Silk and Silver: Investigating an Eighteenth-Century Italian Torah Ark Curtain and Its Maker
  3. Marley Healy, To Have and to Hold: The Construction and Transfiguration of Elizabeth Bull’s Wedding Dress
  4. Nancy Britton, Fit for a Queen: Recreating Eighteenth-Century Textiles for Marie-Antoinette’s Fauteuil at Versailles

Session 7C
Individual Papers: Textile Production

  1. Jacqueline Field, Bates Manufacturing Company: Standing on the Shoulders of Giants
  2. Lynn Tinley, The Roswell Mill: Upcountry Cotton Production and Georgia Global Trade
  3. Peggy Hart, Cassimere: Hiding in Plain Sight
  4. Emily Winter, Wool Sells Itself: Tracing Navajo-Raised Wool in Its Movement from Raw Material into Anonymous Commodity

6:00-8:00 pm Concurrent Session 8

Session 8A
Individual Papers: Needlework and Politics

  1. Lyssa Stapleton, Subversive Stitches: An Embroidered Portrait of Charles I in the Cotsen Textile Traces Collection
  2. Andrea Pappas, Embroidered Landscapes and Women’s Hidden Knowledge of Nature in British North America
  3. Suzanne McDowell, Voting with My Needle: A Whitework Quilt, Circa 1860, Tennessee
  4. Soledad Muñoz, Las Arpilleras, Nuestros Desaparecidos (The Arpilleras, Our Disappeared)

Session 8B
Individual Papers: What Clothing Reveals

  1. Madelyn Shaw and Trish FitzSimons, Where Can Objects Take You?: The Case of the World War II Japanese Airman’s Suit
  2. Samantha Comerford, A Peek into the Enos-Hatch Wardrobe: What Their Historic Clothing Tells Us
  3. Precious Lovell, Cloth and Clothing in Context: Signifiers of Resistance in African American History and Culture
  4. Wanett Clyde, Clothing the Black Body in Slavery

Session 8C
Individual Papers: Japanese Traditional Crafts

  1. Keiko Okamoto, Mr. Tameji Ueno: A Living National Treasure of Hand-Painted Yūzen Dyeing (1954)
  2. Yuka Matsumoto, Ways of Life and Works of Weaving and Dyeing in Okinawa: Toward a Possible Solution of Carry-On Concern
  3. Miwa Kanetani, The Transmission of Traditional Textile-Making Skills by Amateur Weavers: The Case of the Wisteria Fiber Textile-Makers of Kyoto

8:30-9:30 pm

Film: Carolyn Kallenborn, Textiles Talk (30 min.), followed by Q&A

Saturday, October 17, 2020

10:00 am -12:00 pm Concurrent Session 9

Session 9A
Individual Papers: Rugs and Carpets

  1. James Turner, Ayineh: The Mirror in Persian Carpet Designs
  2. Felix van den Belt, Ties That Bind the Daily Lives of Carpet Traders
  3. Alexis Zoto, The State of Albanian Kilims, Their Motifs and Narratives
  4. *Yumiko Kamada, Tribal Textiles and the Mingei Circle in Japan: Yanagi Muneyoshi’s Views on Carpet

Session 9B
Individual Papers: Collections and Archives

  1. Maria Cecilia Holt and Zenovia Toloudi, Borders of Empire(s): Hidden Stories from the Denman Ross Collection at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
  2. Lauren Lovings-Gomez, The Lost Narrative of Natalia Shabelsky’s Collection of Russian Textiles
  3. Marcie Farwell, Reweaving the Textile Archive: Building Diverse Collections on the Legacy of the American Textile History Museum
  4. Angharad Thomas, Hidden Stories in the Collection of the Knitting & Crochet Guild of the United Kingdom

Session 9C
Individual Papers: Lace and Education

  1. Joan Saverino, Maestra Melina, Calabrian Lace Maker: Creative Artistry and the Education of Girls
  2. Elena Kanagy-Loux, “Per Pane e Piacere”: An Examination of the Denison House Lace Sample Book
  3. Ruggero Ranieri and Maria Luciana Buseghin, Artistic Philanthropy and Women’s Emancipation in Early Twentieth-Century Italy, in the Life and the Work of Romeyne Robert and Carolina Amari
  4. Holly Witchey and Robin Hanson, Fragments of Lace: Marginalization and the Creation of Collections

Session 9D
Warp Speed Presentation

  1. Barbara Kahl, Symbolism of Haudenosaunee Raised Beadwork
  2. Julia O’Connell, The Visible Maker
  3. Rohma Khan, A Walk Through Contemporary South Asian Textile Daatsans
  4. Jeana Klein, Craft + Community: Two Recent Projects
  5. Michaela Hansen, A Kati Rimo Design by Alexander McQueen
  6. Stephanie Sabo, Reclaimed: Evelyn Roth
  7. Karthika Audinet, High-End Textiles and Other Crafts for and by Adults with Disabilities at Coletta Collections—A Social Enterprise

12:15-1:15 pm

Plenary Session: Jolene Rickard

1:30-3:30 pm Concurrent Session 10

Session 10A
Individual Papers: Traditions

  1. Ozlen Ozgen, Feryal Soylemezoglu, Zeynep Erdogan and Sevinç Arcak (presenter Zeynep Erdogan), From Past to Present Henna Ritual Clothing in Anatolia: An Evaluation on Bindalli
  2. Soude Dadras, Presence of the Past
  3. *Regina Meredith Fitiao, Making Siapo in Leone Today

Session 10B
Organized Session: Reflections on the Baltimore Natural Dye Initiative and Cultivating Communities of Care
Organizers: Valeska Populoh and Kenya Miles

  1. Kibibi Ajanku, Making Connections Across the Atlantic: Bringing Yoruba Indigo to Baltimore
  2. Rosa Chang, Establishing a Dye Farm in Baltimore
  3. Omolara Williams McCallister, The Indigo Vat as Metaphor for Crafting Cultures of Care

Session 10C
Roundtable Discussion: India in Situ: Textile History and Practice, a Team Approach
Moderator & Organizer: Barbara Setsu Pickett
Discussants: Carol Bier, Louise W. Mackie, Annin Barrett, and Anna Jolly

Session 10D
Individual Papers: Practices

  1. Kate Sekules, MEND MORE BUY LESS: Repair-Making as Activism
  2. Nneka Kai, Sitting between My Mother’s Legs, I Learned About the World
  3. Sarah-Joy Ford, Rebel Dykes and Arrow Heads: Embroidering Lesbian Histories in the Pitt Rivers Museum History
  4. Margarita Cuéllar-Barona and Aurora Vergara-Figueroa, Stitches in Time: Towards an Institutional Darning Based on Feminist Pedagogy and Textile Practices
  5. Stephanie Bunn, Forces in Translation: The Hidden Story of Mathematics and Textile Skills

3:45-5:45 pm Concurrent Session 11

Session 11A
Roundtable Discussion: Focus on Textiles x Science: Interdisciplinary Research and Invention
Organizers and Moderators: Maggie D’Aversa and Isaac Facio
Discussants: Heather MacKenzie, Lindsay Olson

Session 11B
Individual Papers: Global Trade

  1. Emily Taylor, Uncovering Objects: The Importance of Context for the Textiles of Tyninghame House, Scotland, Circa 1700-1800
  2. Helen Wyld, The Storrar Coverlet: Revealing a Story of International Trade
  3. Eileen McKiernan González, Post-Coloniality, Historicity, and the Environment at the Venice Biennale
  4. Aditi Khare, Prejudiced Commodities: Understanding Knowledge Transfer from India to Britain through Printed and Painted Calicoes, 1720-1780

Session 11C
Individual Papers: 20th Century Textiles

  1. Kerstin Heitzke, Finding Mathilde Flögl: A Visual Analysis
  2. Addison Nace, Folk Design: How Mexican Folk Art Shaped the Modernist Work of Alexander Girard
  3. Kevin Kosbab, Between Design and Craft: Lucienne Day and Eszter Haraszty
  4. Andrew Gardner, The Ex-Bellhop and the Modern: Joel Robinson’s Textiles, Black Identity, and MoMA’s Design Collection from Mid-Century to Today
  5. Ayaka Sano, From Silk Crepe to Ban-Lon: The Experimental Textiles of Hanae Mori

6:00-8:00 pm Concurrent Session 12

Session 12A
Individual Papers: Latin America

  1. Eduardo Portillo and Maria Davila, People, Landscape and Wool Weaving in the Venezuelan Andes
  2. Ann Rowe, Fugitive Dyes in Chancay Textiles
  3. Gabrielle Vail and Concepcion Poou Coy Tharin, Woven Stories and Painted Books: Exploring the Worldviews and Lives of Pre-Hispanic to Contemporary Maya Women
  4. *Maria Smith, Creating the Sensible: Weaving the Colonial Aesthetic at a Colonial Obraje

Session 12B
Individual Papers: Masculinities

  1. Cecilia Gunzburger, “To Embellish Himself with a Cloth”: Handkerchiefs and Civility
  2. Chloe Chapin, Hidden in Plain Sight: Evening Dress in Black and White
  3. Kristof Avramsson, Gender(ed) Matters: Unravelling Men Knitting
  4. André Jackson, Investigating Masculinities: The Art of André Terrel Jackson
  5. Raúl Cornier, Hanky Panky: The Cultural Impact of the Gay Hanky Code

Session 12C
Individual Papers: Resilience and Adaptation in Native American Art

  1. *Laura J. Allen, An Uncommon Ammunition Case: Interpreting “Transitional” Textiles and Social Worlds in Nineteenth-Century Tlingit Alaska
  2. Vera Longtoe Sheehan, Alnôbaskwa: Native American Women Making Ceremonial Regalia
  3. Jennifer Byram, Many Makers: Collaborative Renewal of Chahta Nan Tvnna (Choctaw Textiles)
  4. *Annabelle Camp, Casting a Wide Net: The Value of Collaboration and Outreach with Source Communities in the Analysis of Historic Native American Fishing Nets
  5. Beverly Gordon, Contemporary Oneida Beadwork—Revitalized Identity Through an “Adopted” Art Form

8:30-9:30 pm

Film: Jennifer Swope, Raven’s Tail Journey of Evelyn Vanderhoop (25 min.), followed by Q&A